Brunch at Cookshop

This past Sunday, I thought it might be nice to brunch with a friend at Cookshop. It turned out that half of Manhattan had the same idea. There was a wait even though we had a reservation; fortunately it wasn't too long, as my buttermilk beignets craving was unbearable! Cookshop serves the four hot, puffy, sugar-dusted doughnuts with a stroke of genius: cardamom-spiked pineapple compote. Like lemon squeezed over fried zucchini, it's a perfect combination.

After polishing these sweeties off, we decided against the cornmeal pancakes with caramel bananas. My friend ordered a thick slice of rye toast which had the dual function of supporting some braised chard and poached eggs, and sopping up a pool of velvety cheese fondue. I downed the "Cookshop Scramble" with smoked salmon - a halved biscuit holding a portion of eggs scrambled with caramelized onions, dill and salmon.

When we were finished, I briefly considered ordering more beignets, but one must occasionally show some kind of restraint.

Cookshop: 156 Tenth Ave., (212) 924-4440.